Photographer Interview:
Elizabeth Wirija
BIO
Balancing on a tightrope between fantasy and reality, Eli Wirija’s compelling visual world defines a new present. Through their bold approach to color and ability to make individuals and objects alike stand out in any setting, Eli has built a portfolio that captures eminent creators and progressive fashion with dynamism and clarity.
Originally from Jakarta, Eli draws deeply on both their personal experience while growing up in Indonesia. Eli’s ability to harness their imagination and manifest lasting images has seen them work with clients including Nike, VICE, Adidas, WNBA, Microsoft and SSENSE. And publications including British Vogue, Billboard, Vanity Fair, FADER and Paper Magazine
Tell us a little about yourself. Where are you from? Where do you currently reside?
I’m Elizabeth Wirija, I prefer to be known as Eli. I’m a photographer and director currently residing in New York but I was originally born and raised in this small island called Indonesia.
What brings you to NYC? (If not from)
I came for higher education, I moved out of my homeland when I was only 15 and immediately came to America to pursue college. I first landed in Seattle and spent two years in community college there before transferring over to an art school in New York. But emotionally, I was just so mentally ready to leave the tiny world as I knew it back home in exchange for freedom and change and the idea of New York instilled that within me.
What’s a weird or fun fact about yourself?
I love collecting knives – whether that be switchblades, butterfly knives, traditional swords, etc. I’m also really good at finishing puzzles.
How long have you been shooting for?
I’ve been holding the camera ever since I was 15. So it’s been 11 years now. Wow, that’s crazy to think about.
Did you start off shooting film or digital?
I started out with digital!
Did you buy your first camera or was it a gift? What type of camera was it?
It was a gift from my dad. I have been asking for it for years and he finally surprised me one day when he took me to the used electronics store. It still might be the best gift anyone has ever given me, because that day I was given new eyes to see through. It was a Nikon D70. I remember how clunky and big it was in my hands but how excited I was to make photographs. I took photos of everything; the sky, the flowers, my friends.
“The power to explore my emotions and instill a sense of familiarity and wonder. When they say the soul remnants of a person lingers on a photograph, I think it’s true.”
Does photography run in your family?
I found out that my great grandfather was a well-respected photographer in the community in the 1960s. He even had a photo studio called Futura in the middle of the neighborhood of central Jakarta where he photographs weddings, family portraits and other occasions. I knew about this information only after I’ve started photography for 5 years or more. It made me ponder that maybe some passions do skip generations as I’m the only living photographer that I know of in my family. One of my younger cousins actually has been doing cinematography the last time I went back home so it’s been really fun to trade my skills and knowledge with him.
How has your photography evolved over the years?
When I first started, I used it as a tool of observation and documented everything. I was learning as I went. I walked with my camera everywhere and did street photography, capturing landscapes and environments. It was free flowing and I was doing it mostly alone. No mood boards, no team, just me.
Eventually, I became more fascinated with portraits. I would often reach out to models or people I found interesting and asked if I could photograph them. We'd pick out clothing from their wardrobe and I’ll tell them to meet me at a subway station and then take a walk in the neighborhood and see what stood out.
Now I’m more calculated where I would build a concept, have a treatment or mood board and assemble a team to make the vision come into fruition. I find that at this part of my journey, to have each person specialize in their talents and when everyone is aligned, we end up making work that we’re extremely proud of.
Does your environment influence your creativity?
Hell yeah! I’m very influenced by my environment, I take in energies and I look at everything. The thing about me is whether you notice it or not, I’m constantly absorbing information. My process is cyclic in nature. I often go through months where I’m in the absorption phase where there's a lot of input but no work being made. Then after, there will be a surge of creative energy and I’ll create tons of work within a short amount of time. It’s more like a sprint for me. When I can change my environment and travel somewhere, that ends up influencing my creativity a lot.
Any specific moment stand out where you knew you wanted to purse photography?
When I was sitting in an office miserable designing coupons for a well known hair brand and I kept looking out the window wishing I was outside with my camera. That was a catalyst that I knew I wasn’t at the right place. Sometimes doing something you hate makes you appreciate and love your passion even more.
Do you take part in styling your shoots?
When I first started out, I did take part in styling a lot. I love the way clothing interacts with an individual and the energy shift you feel when you’re wearing something amazing.. I would scour ebay or even go to thrift stores to find a fitting outfit for a concept. But now I prefer to have a stylist for bigger concepts and focus on the photography part of it. Don’t get me wrong though, I’m very closely linked with the stylist and we will share ideas with one another.
While we’re on the subject of style, lets talk hair! You’re constantly switching it up whether its color or cuts. Does this depend on your mood or do you just love experimenting?
I absolutely revel in the way I can transform and I use hair and also fashion as a medium for me to change my appearance. The way the external society perceives me is a funny thing I’d play with quite a bit because it's so dependent on how I choose to present myself. As a non-binary being, it depends on the day, when I feel more masculine or feminine and my energy will then reflect that. I feel different based on the color of my hair and also how I dress but I know it’s a symbiotic relationship that it affects one another.
What came first for you directing or photography?
Photography came first for me. Directing came later on, but I remember being fascinated by films and also anime early on in my life. That inspired me to want to make my own little films. Both satisfy different parts of me. Photography is when I am able to immortalize a moment, something as fleeting as the present. While with directing, it lets me tell a story more deeply from start to finish.
Can you tell us a little about your journey with directing.
I made my first concept short film while I was still in college for my thesis, it centers around the concept of time. On how we rarely stay in the present and often time travel via overthinking about our future or reminiscing about our past. It is about a time-traveler who can’t seem to control his ability and keep jumping through time dimensions. After that, I made a documentary about young creatives in New York, they openly share their vulnerabilities and their life story. Fast forward a few years and I've had the chance to work on multiple jobs for bigger name brands such as Microsoft, Coach and Marni which I’m grateful for.
When do you feel like you have the most creative freedom as an artist?
When I allow myself to play and experiment as much as I want. When I foster my inner child and let them go wild on the walls. When self doubt says “What if it goes wrong?” but I softly quiet it by saying “But what if it goes right?”
Out of all the publications and brands you shot for which was the most memorable? Why?
One of the more memorable shoots for me was the one for Vogue beauty when we reimagined how the future of beauty will look. I was working with a super talented team and also I was able to manifest one set that was underwater that was accomplished with 3d post processing and another inspired by Hajime Sorayama’s robot chambers. We couldn’t build the set due to restraints but the vision was still manifested via post. I was extremely proud of the outcome.
Are you a self taught photographer? Any advice you would give to beginners?
Yeah, I’m self taught when it comes to photography. When I first got my camera, I was so thirsty for knowledge and found myself buying books titled “Manual Photography for Beginners” and “How to make a great image”. I also watched tons of youtube videos which is a gold mine for any questions I had. Every time I made a mistake, it made me more excited to get things right the next time. My attitude towards my art is I’m constantly learning something new.
I think when you’re just starting out, make A LOT of work and don’t forget to experiment and have fun with it. I know we’re saturated with an overload of visual stimulation on social media and it’s easy to get discouraged to see other creatives who you strive to be and compare yourself to but trust in the process. Put in the time and hours and soon enough you’ll notice how you are among them.
On Set…
What camera would you want to be your last?
The way technology keeps progressing, I can’t say to be exact. I’ve never been a gear person because I believe it’s the vision that makes the work, not the piece of equipment. The idea itself is key. I’ve been using the same camera for the last 5 years. Maybe when they start installing cameras into our eyes, that might be my last one.
Do you prefer digital or analog? Why?
I started out with digital so I’m biased and I’m more comfortable with it but I also shoot film now. It helps me focus on the composition more. Can’t lie though, I like the immediacy and urgency of digital.
When I am shooting digitally, I over-click and have photographs I don’t need while on film I’m more meticulous with the number of shots I have. A raw image from a digital camera to me is a skeleton and the editing part of it is where I add the flesh. What I mean by that is I need to color and edit a lot to add the mood. While on film, the image is ready once it’s processed and there’s less editing since the colors come with the film stock itself. There’s pros and cons in both.
Assistant or solo?
Having assistants is so important to me, especially those who know how you think and also can think ahead for you. I’m content to know I have people that help me to be my best self. It makes my process more seamless and I can emphasize on creating.
During shoots is there a certain vibe you like to curate on set? How do you do it?
I make sure everyone is connecting on a deeper level. You can feel it when people feel connected. I want to make people feel comfortable to be their true self. I introduce myself to everyone on set, and also ask questions and relate to each person there because each person is important to me. Crack some jokes, dance around. I make sure to play some tunes, music is wonderful in a way that it transforms the energy in the room.
Go to song on set?
My all-time favorite artist is Frank Ocean, so anything by him.
Candid or posed?
It really depends. Most of the time, I know how I want the body to distort and move, especially on a model in a more conceptual shoot to explore the theme I want to convey so I give posed directions. But when I am just documenting my day to day, it’s mostly candid.
When it comes to photography, what moves you?
The power to explore my emotions and instill a sense of familiarity and wonder. When they say the soul remnants of a person lingers on a photograph, I think it’s true.
Is there any particular element of shooting you’d like to tackle or explore?
I have been doing it a lot but exploring the infinite possibilities with studio lighting. Since I know there’s so many ways of changing a mood with the subtle changes in lighting.
Any upcoming projects you’re working on?
I’m currently completing my first inaugural photo book that is a documentation of my life for the last 5 years on film. I hope to release it by next year. I am also currently putting down the shot list to my short film and also a couple of exciting personal conceptual shoots that revolve around science fiction.
What would you like people to take away from your work?
To plant the seed that their imagination is boundless. I love imagining scenes where the viewer needs to keep guessing whether this is a dream or this is real life.
Interview by 35s & 45s
09.09.21